“Ronin Omakase has turned the page, and the new chapter tastes distinctly Korean. Chef Liam Lee, whose résumé spans Firebird, Nomad and Studio Amaro, brings a South Korean culinary upbringing to the CBD counter, recasting omakase through doenjang pil pil with snapper, guksu with dried scallop, anchovy and uni, yukhoe on nashi pear, and misugaru panna cotta with fermented persimmon. Ferments, banchan and sesame seeds flown in from Korea sharpen the detail, while Victorian producers keep it grounded.

With just 10 seats, this is intimate, precise and one of Melbourne’s most compelling omakase arrivals.”

Kelsey Harrington