“The incoming chef has given the tiny Collins Street omakase restaurant a complete overhaul, with French-Korean beef tartare, 17-hour beef short ribs and Korean-made whisky now on the table.

Look behind the sushi counter at a top Japanese restaurant in Melbourne and you’re liable to find an accomplished Korean, like Matsu owner Hansol Lee or Sushi On founder JangYong Hyun. Yes – despite the two countries’ unpleasant history, the similarities and synergies between their cuisines is undeniable.

A Korean omakase, then, isn’t a huge deviation from the script. And at Little Collins restaurant Ronin, it could even be a step closer to tradition. Original chef Patrick Kwong, who founded the restaurant with his partner in 2024, grew up in Malaysia and plated up the likes of Hainanese fish rice, prawn nigiri with laksa butter, and an Italo-Japanese “tira-miso” dessert.

New chef Liam Lee, who’s clocked time at Nomad, Firebird and Studio Amaro, has brought an equally personal touch to the menu. Helpfully, one of his relatives runs a small Victorian farm specialising in Korean veggies – naturally, it’s come on as a supplier. Lee’s now pairing snapper with Yarra Valley caviar and Basque pil pil sauce (salt cod, garlic, olive oil). His guksu (noodles) float in a clear broth of dried scallops and Korean anchovy, plus fresh local uni (sea urchin). And a French-Korean yukhoe matches raw beef with egg yolk, gochujang and sliced nashi pear. Misugaru – a grain-based drink powder akin to Milo, sans chocolate – is reimagined as a panna cotta and paired with fermented persimmon and hazelnut.

Even the drinks list has been given a Korean overhaul, making Ronin almost like a new restaurant entirely. There’s Korean-made whiskies (a rarity in Melbourne) and some cocktails feature favi ade, a fruit-based vinegar made by Lee’s friend Sangsoo Kim of Hot Listed shop Gamja Hotteok. Here’s what Lee had to say about his new role.”

Audrey Payne & Nick Connellan